Grushintsy have gone down from the Everest.
Grushintsy have gone down from the Everest.
Grushintsy in the end of October went on Mountain. This time it was
The highest top of the world - the Everest. Recently they have returned from
Nepal.
All years of existence of club grushintsy went to campaigns on
Sayan mountains, Altai, Urals Mountains, Kola peninsula. But thus dreamt, that
There will come such time when it will be possible to go without ceremony
Somewhere to Africa, Latin America or to go to the Everest,
Which was a limit of dreams. And such time has come. They have bought
Tickets aboard the plane to Katmandu (there and back - nearby 500
Dollars), have paid for the Nepalese visa at the airport of Katmandu on
30 dollars. From Katmandu it is necessary to fly even an hour per settlement Lukla -
Gate of the Everest.
At the airport in Katmandu there is no panel and radio, flights cry out
Special shouters on any tarabarskom an adverb, all
Worry. At last we have sat down in the small plane. A door in a cabin
Pilots the unusual panorama of mountains ahead was opened, visible.
Pilots there it is simple virtuosos. Time and again it seemed to passengers, that
The plane will touch with a wing mountain or before the planting by a belly
Will strike on pass.
Landing strip in Lukle short, under a corner in 20 degrees, and
On the one hand comes to an end a rock, with another - breakage. If hardly
Not to calculate... When they have already gone down from mountains, have seen nearby
Runway the plane hurt at planting with the flattened
Nose, fortunately, passengers remained are whole, the pilot has got off
The broken hand.
In Lukle grushintsy have put on backpacks and have gone on a metre track to
To the Everest. At an input on a track - gate, stand policemen, and it is necessary
To pay 15 dollars. This money is spent for the maintenance of a track and
Suspension bridges. The track goes in the most beautiful places, over the deep
Gorges with the mountain rivers, on suspension bridges. All go with
Ski sticks so it is easier. On a track the infinite moves to the purpose
Stream of tourists from all light. There are upward caravans of yaks, ringing
Hand bells.
It is a lot of Americans, Germans, Spaniards, Dutches, Brazilians,
Mexicans, Japanese, among them a lot of rather well-founded
People. Along a track often there are so-called hotels, sickly
Constructions where it is possible to spend the night and eat. It is not necessary with itself
To take tent, meal, only warm things and a sleeping bag.
All walk nalegke or use porters - sherpov. As
Rule, there are no more than 2-3 hours per day. It is necessary to adapt,
Lukla is at height of 2800 metres above sea level. Only
We went for 10 hours per day - they had not enough time,
Only 10 days. Go on one or on two - the husband and the wife, in extreme
Case three-four.
Only Russian go uphill the big groups. Grushintsev was
11. Rose in 6, in 7 left in a way, in 5 in mountains already comes
Night. Had supper in hotel. Is there from our point of view absolutely
There is nothing. Meat is not present absolutely, give the handful of dry rice boiled
Handful of noodles with one-two blades.
Grushintsev amazed, that in hotel anybody from foreigners with anybody
Does not communicate, one read, others simply are silent. We sit for
Table, sing, something tell, laugh, and around - silence. At
Bard Valery Bokova there was with itself a guitar, but he hesitated to sing:
"We here not one". But last day grushintsy have decided, that
The tradition should be broken, it has as a result turned out
The Russian-indijsko-brazilsko-American evening. The Hindu played on
Any strange tool, the American sang from repertoire
Beatles and "Road long", the son of the owner of hotel knocked spoons.
Then grushintsev all together saw off.
In the beginning on a track all go cheerful, jokes sound. But above
There comes silence: to breathe very hard, all is moved hardly by feet.
The track conducts to a final point of tracking (travel without
Special skills) - to base camp at height of 5545 metres,
Whence already climbing ascensions begin.
Each movement is given hardly. At high-mountainous settlement
Namche-market the steep slope, steps, apparently, it is infinite
Leave in the sky. And though all is made that on a track could
To go people unprepared, mountains remain mountains. When ours
Came back, have learnt, that on a track the Frenchman was lost - has broken in
Gorge.
And mountain illness too not abstraction. They saw, how bore and
Conducted the diseased: their persons were dark blue colour from oxygen
Insufficiency.
At top it is severe and cold - from 40 to 50 degrees of a frost on
To Celsius. They went down downwards, and it is not easier. In пЁя я я п п?я п п command
Almost all have stolen up solid age: Boris Kejlman,
Antonina Fofanova, Larissa Bobrovskaja, Alexander Rubenchik and it
The son - from Samara, Muscovites Ruslan Shiryaev and Sergey Panov, Valery
Sides from Kazan. On a track they have met the foreigner and with
Surprise have learnt, that to it 71 year, it looked fine.
Have met the nice young American, the lawyer of years
30, it has appeared, to it 54. He has told, that goes to the Everest to the tenth
Time - "to remain young".
Sherpy-porters, not only men, but also women, and children,
Drag uphill huge baskets, nearly on 100 kgs in weight,
Receive for it 1000 rupees - about 14 dollars. Children from the poor
Families study only to 6th class, then in something trade, that
To help a family.
Except Kejlmana, in English from ours nobody spoke, but
Foreigners understood them. In Nepal grushintsev Russian have not understood. In
Day of arrival to Katmandu at a two from ours was stolen by passports and tickets
Home.
They have gone to the Russian embassy where have met the haughty
Reception. And when Nepaleses began to extort from them money before
Flying away, the consul has flatly refused to help. Foreigners of the such
Relations to fellow citizens simply do not understand. In police on
The statement for theft have responded: "Come tomorrow". And one of
Policemen has asked at Kejlmana: "And you read Dostoevsky?"
He read "Idiot".
But inhabitants of mountains - good-natured, affable people. Grushintsy
To time there was no witnesses of quarrels, insults, an irritation. All each other
Smiled, helped, wished happy journey.
Lyudmila Belkin.
<$>
//* an information Source: the Samara review, 4.12.00
//* Reg. Nom. - 1101200024.29-------------------------------------------
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